Krakow's weather can turn gray and wet at any time of year, but the city is built for it — centuries of cellar culture, world-class museums, and cozy cafes mean rain barely dents your plans.
MORNING: start at the Rynek Underground Museum beneath the Main Square — a 4,000-square-meter archaeological excavation that's one of Europe's most innovative museums. You're already underground, so the rain is irrelevant. Allow 90 minutes.
MID-MORNING: cross to the Czartoryski Museum for Leonardo's "Lady with an Ermine" and a remarkable collection of Old Masters. Or the National Museum Main Building for the definitive collection of Polish art. Both are uncrowded on rainy days.
LUNCH: duck into a cellar restaurant — Pod Aniolami for grilled meats by an open fire, or any of the Old Town's vaulted underground restaurants. Polish food was made for cold, wet days.
AFTERNOON: Schindler's Factory (book online), MOCAK contemporary art, or the Pharmacy Museum in the Old Town. For something different, try a cooking class (3-4 hours of pierogi-making in a warm kitchen).
LATE AFTERNOON: thick hot chocolate at Nowa Prowincja, apple pie at Cafe Camelot, or specialty coffee at Coffee Proficiency.
EVENING: check if the Krakow Philharmonic, the Stary Teatr, or any church has a concert. Otherwise, a Kazimierz bar crawl is even cozier in the rain — candles, warm cellars, and the sound of rain on the cobblestones outside.
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