Jarema

Few restaurants in Krakow tell a story quite as poignant as this one — a place where history, politics, and pierogi collide in the most delicious way possible.

History & Background

Jarema takes its name and its soul from the Kresy — the vast eastern borderlands of pre-war Poland that encompassed what is now Ukraine, Belarus, and Lithuania. After World War II, millions of Poles were displaced from these territories, and their culinary traditions came with them to cities like Krakow. Jarema was founded to honor that heritage, serving dishes that most visitors have never encountered elsewhere in Poland. It's less a restaurant and more a cultural act of remembrance, keeping alive a cuisine that could easily have been lost to history.

What to Expect

Tucked into the Old Town near Plac Marii Magdaleny, the interior is warm and unhurried — think dark wood, embroidered textiles, and the kind of décor that feels genuinely traditional rather than staged for tourists. The menu reads like a love letter to the eastern frontier: borscht arrives deep crimson and earthy, nothing like the thin versions you might know, and the varenyky (Ukrainian-style dumplings) are stuffed with combinations ranging from potato and cottage cheese to sauerkraut and wild mushroom. Other standouts include żurek made with regional flair, and hearty meat dishes slow-cooked in the Kresy tradition. Expect to spend 60–100 PLN per person for a full meal with drinks — genuinely good value for the quality and the experience. Budget at least 90 minutes; this is not a place to rush.

Insider Tip

Order the borscht with uszka — tiny mushroom-filled dumplings floated in the soup — rather than borscht alone. It's the version locals request and it transforms the dish entirely. Also, Jarema tends to fill up on weekend evenings with both tourists and Krakovians who grew up eating here, so book a table in advance or arrive before 7pm on a Friday or Saturday. The lunch hours on weekdays are quieter and sometimes feature a daily special not listed on the regular menu, so it's worth asking your server what's come in fresh that day.