Kleparz sits just north of the Old Town walls, historically a separate settlement that grew around the Stary Kleparz market - operating since 1181 and one of the oldest continuously active markets in Europe.
The market itself is the main draw. Unlike the tourist-oriented Cloth Hall, Stary Kleparz is where actual Krakovians buy their food. Stalls overflow with seasonal produce from Malopolska farms: forest mushrooms in autumn, strawberries and cherries in summer, smoked meats and mountain cheeses year-round. Saturday morning (8-11 AM) is the best time to visit.
Surrounding the market, Kleparz has the honest, slightly rough-around-the-edges character of a neighborhood that hasn't been gentrified. Budget restaurants and milk bars (bar mleczny) serve working lunches at prices unchanged from a decade ago. University student housing fills the side streets with young energy.
The area between Kleparz and the Barbican includes the grand Matejko Square with its Grunwald Monument, the ornate Juliusz Slowacki Theatre, and the Planty park section that's lush and relatively uncrowded.
Kleparz is the Krakow of everyday life - a short walk from the Main Square but a world away from the tourist bubble. Visitors who venture here find the real Poland.
Keep reading
All guides →